Washing Machine Maintenance Guide
A washing machine can put up with a lot, but it definitely shows the effects of neglect. Musty smells, dingy clothes, extra shaking, and surprise puddles on the floor usually start with small maintenance issues that got ignored for too long. A simple routine keeps the machine working the way it should, is easier on your clothes, and can help you avoid the kind of repair bill that makes you wish you had spent 20 minutes cleaning it last month.
At a Glance
- Difficulty: Beginner
- Time Required: 45–90 minutes
- Frequency: Monthly upkeep with quarterly deep maintenance
- Estimated Cost: DIY: $10–$35 per session; Pro: $120–$250 per visit
Routine Maintenance Schedule
| Task | Frequency | DIY or Pro? |
|---|---|---|
| Wipe the door gasket or lid rim and leave the washer open to dry | After each use | DIY |
| Clean the detergent dispenser | Monthly | DIY |
| Run a washer-cleaning cycle | Monthly | DIY |
| Inspect water supply hoses and connections | Quarterly | DIY |
| Clean the drain pump filter | Every 3–6 months | DIY |
| Check machine leveling and vibration | Every 6 months | DIY |
| Replace damaged hoses or diagnose persistent leaks | As needed | Pro |
Safety Warnings
Always unplug the washing machine or switch off the dedicated breaker before opening access panels, cleaning internal parts, or touching hoses and filters.
Shut off the hot and cold water supply valves before removing hoses or cleaning the drain pump filter, and keep towels or a shallow pan nearby for spill control.
Never mix bleach, vinegar, or other cleaners unless the product label specifically allows it, and avoid reaching into a washer until all moving parts have completely stopped.
Step-by-Step DIY Guide
Step 1: Disconnect Power and Water
Start with the basics: cut the power and shut off the water. Unplug the washer if the cord is easy to reach, or switch off the dedicated breaker if it is tucked behind the machine. Close both supply valves, then pull the washer forward just enough to give yourself some working room. Put down a few towels before you do anything else. Even a careful job usually comes with a little drip or splash.
Step 2: Clean the Detergent Dispenser
Take out the detergent drawer or dispenser cup the way your owner's manual shows. If it has that sticky detergent film or fabric softener sludge in the corners, let it soak in warm water for a few minutes first. Then scrub it with a soft brush or cloth, paying attention to the small channels where buildup likes to hide. Rinse it well and dry it before putting it back so you are not feeding old residue right back into the machine.
Step 3: Wipe the Door Gasket or Lid Rim
On a front-load washer, pull back the folds in the rubber gasket and look for the usual mess: lint, hair, standing water, and grimy soap residue. The bottom section is often the worst spot, so do not rush it. On a top-load model, wipe the underside of the lid, the rim around the tub opening, and the areas near the dispensers where splashes collect. Dry everything when you are done. That small step makes a big difference with mildew.
Step 4: Run a Drum-Cleaning Cycle
Use the tub clean or self-clean setting if your washer has one. If it does not, run the hottest, longest cycle possible with the drum empty. Stick with a washer cleaner approved for your machine type instead of guessing with random household products. After the cycle finishes, wipe the drum, door glass, or lid area while any loosened residue is still easy to remove. If you just close it up and walk away, some of that grime settles right back in place.
Step 5: Inspect the Water Supply Hoses
Check both inlet hoses from one end to the other. You are looking for cracks, bulges, kinks, rust around the couplings, or damp spots that suggest a slow leak. If a connection is loose, tighten it by hand first, then give it only a slight extra snug if needed. Too much force can create a new problem. If the hoses look worn or old, replace them. Braided stainless steel hoses are usually a worthwhile upgrade over aging rubber ones.
Step 6: Clean the Drain Pump Filter
If your washer has a drain pump filter behind a lower access panel, get a shallow pan and several towels in place before you open it. Loosen the filter cap slowly because trapped water tends to come out faster than expected. Once the water drains, remove the filter and clear out whatever is stuck in there: lint, coins, buttons, pet hair, and sometimes a few mystery items. Rinse the filter clean and reinstall it securely. If your machine does not have a user-accessible filter, check the manual and skip this step.
Step 7: Level the Washer
Set a level across the top of the washer and check it side to side, then front to back. If the machine rocks or sits unevenly, adjust the leveling feet until it feels solid on the floor. Tighten the locknuts if your model uses them. A washer that sits level usually runs quieter, shakes less, and puts less strain on the suspension and spin parts over time.
When to Call a Pro
- Leaks keep coming back after you have checked the hoses and connections.
- The washer still will not drain, spin, or fill properly after basic cleaning.
- You hear grinding, metal-on-metal banging, or heavy knocking during the spin cycle.
- There is a burning smell, a tripped breaker, sparking, or any sign of electrical damage.
- Error codes return even after you complete the recommended maintenance.